seasonal eating


I set myself the challenge of eating more seasonally in December 07, so this is the two-year mark. It’s become a habit, more or less, and a rewarding one at that. Eating seasonally means you’re getting the best of everything, the freshest and tastiest of what’s in the shops at any given time.

It’s more fun too. I can understand that this wouldn’t appeal to everyone, but I love cooking and I like the challenge of using what’s in season, learning new things and experimenting.

There’s plenty of reasons to eat seasonally before you even get to the environmental benefits of fewer food miles. And as always, it’s about eating more seasonally, being mindful. It doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing decision. So this month, you are not exclusively limited to the following, but might like to consider more of them:

Swede, potatoes, parsnips, turnips, beetroot, sprouts, carrots, red cabbage, kale, cauliflower, celery and leeks. Apples, quinces, pears and nuts are available too.

Wild foods include chanterelle and chickweed, honey fungus and oyster mushrooms.

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It’s November already, somehow. We haven’t had a frost here yet in the south of England, but the first of those will put an end to any salads and herbs still hanging on. In their place come the hardier winter vegetables – cabbage, cauliflower, potatoes, carrots, leeks, sprouts, swede and parsnips. Look out for pumpkins too, while apples, pears and quinces round out the fruit.

If you’re foraging, there should still be plenty of varities of mushroom available, including puffball, honey fungus and oyster mushroom. If wild mushrooms aren’t your thing, perhaps hazelnuts, walnuts and sweet chestnuts are a better starting place.

How to tell a sweet chestnut from a conker? The chestnuts are almost triangular and pointed, and come in twos or threes in a green burr that’s much spikier than a conker pod. You can split them and roast them, or for a traditional recipe, steep them in hot water, peel off the skins, and then fry them up with sprouts and bacon. If you’re really keen, they can even be ground up to make a gluten-free flour.

I can’t quite believe it’s October already, but that makes it apple season. Shame on you if you’re not buying local English apples at this time of year.

Stock up on  aubergines, cauliflower and courgettes while you can, before they’re over for this year and replaced with new season artichokes, brussel sprouts, and celeriac. Red and white cabbages replace the green summer varieties. Marrow, carrots, onions and spinach are still in season, and so is squash, beetroot, and of course pumpkin. Marrow, there’s something I haven’t cooked very often…

It’s also mussel season, if you want to go foraging along the seashore. Landlubbers might want to go looking for nuts, hazel, chestnut and walnut. Elderberries and juniper are also about, if you know what to do with them.

We’re almost a week into September and I haven’t posted this month’s seasonal update. Lots to enjoy at this time of year though, particularly fruit: apples, plums, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and greengages (any other fruits named after a colour?) We still have hundreds of tomatoes in the garden.

Lots of saladstuffs too, lettuce, cucumber, celery, radish, spring onions. Beans and peas are about, and so are beetroots, cabbage, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, peppers and potatoes. Look out for pumpkin any time soon as well.

Foragers will be harvesting berries of the black, bil, elder, rowan, sloe and hawthorn variety. If you know what you’re looking for you can also find hops, walnuts and hazelnuts, and marsh samphire. There should be puffballs, chanterelles and parasol mushrooms around too, for those with a good field guide to fungi.

August returns, the seasonal eating bonanza. The patio courgettes are growing faster than we can eat them, and there will be peppers and aubergine in the next couple of weeks. Sweetcorn is in, lettuce, lots of herbs, and leeks and peas.

The main crop of carrots, potatoes and onions are being harvested and stored, and tree fruits such as apples and plums arrive towards the end of the month.  Look out for raspberried, loganberries and gooseberries too.

Foragers will be hunting wild mushrooms, many of which are at the best in the summer, including cep and chanterelle, fairy ring champignon, and the giant puffball. Hazelnuts are also in season, early blackberries are out, and wild strawberries if you can find them. (I can’t.)

I’m aware that I’m writing this from a UK perspective. It’s harder to factor in the US because it’s so big and varied! The produce listed here will be more relevant to the north of the country. Eat the seasons has monthly listings for the US.

I may have mentioned that Lou and I went to visit Mike Guerra’s permaculture garden a few weeks back. Lou interviewed Mike as part of a mini-series for the gardening programme on BBC Three Counties Radio, and then re-cut the audio for a short documentary about permaculture. You can listen to it on the Ecologist website here.

Mike and his family live very compactly, growing an extraordinary amount of food from a very small garden. He is the author of The Edible Container Garden, which is a great guide to doing permaculture with just a balcony or a back yard.

It’s July, which is a feast of a month. Here’s what’s in season right now:

Aubergine, broccoli, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, courgette, cucumber, leek, lettuce, onions, peas, potato, radish, shallot, sweetcorn, tomatoes.

Loads of fruit available too, with apples, blackberries, blackcurrants, cherries, pears and plums.

Foragers will be on the look-out for seaweeds such as sea lettuce, laver, beanweed, kelps and wracks. Many cultures eat seaweed regularly, but despite being an island with plenty of coastline to harvest it, it’s never established itself on the British dinner table. However, I’m told seaweeds are at their most nutritious at this time of the year, so there’s no better time to try it. Check out Fergus Drennan’s advice on seaweeds here, or Michael Guiry’s seaweed site.

Landlubbing foragers will be after the blackberries and wild cherries, and of course wild mushrooms.

June sees a wealth of new seasonal foods, after the lean patch of May. The summer fruits arrive, with strawberries, blackcurrants, cherries and raspberries. Early tomato varieties will begin to fruit, although mine are a way off yet.

On the vegetable side, asparagus continues, and beans, cabbage, mushrooms, beetroot, onions, new potatoes, spinach, lettuce. Look out for courgettes and cauliflower by the end of the month.

Your herbs should be good right now too, basil and oregano, chives, mint, parsley, and dill.

If you’ve been paying attention to the hedgerows, the elderflower is out and ready for home-made champagne. Look out for wild strawberries too, and nettles are still good at this time of year.

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May is the leanest month for seasonal eating. We don’t notice it in this age of refrigeration, but it used to be the ‘hungry gap’ – winter vegetables wouldn’t store any longer, and the summer crops hadn’t arrived yet.

Nevertheless, there’s still plenty to enjoy. The spinach in the garden is still growing wild, and chard will be too. Rhubarb is everywhere, and look out for gooseberries too.

Cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce are in season, onions and peas. There are also new potatoes, carrots to enjoy by the end of the month, and as any conoisseur will tell you, asparagus.

If you want to enjoy the bounty of the fields and woods, look out for morels and St George mushrooms. I was pleased to find the latter growing on the lawn. I’m sure your mother told you not to eat random fungi, but you can learn to identify them – there are about twenty different poisonous mushrooms, some of them common, some very rare. A good field guide will tell you all you need to know.

Nettles, dandelions, wild garlic and hop shoots are also there for the picking, and I was introduced to ‘jack by the hedge’ last week – a delicious garlic-tinged leaf found in hedgerows.

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I’ve been out at the Waterside Centre on the Tottenham Marshes this weekend for an introduction to permaculture course. I’ll tell you more about it later. If you were there this weekend and are dropping by, welcome.

riverside-centre

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